Elmina is a small, coastal town about three hours west of Accra. It is home to the Elmina slave-trading castle, which is the oldest European built structure in sub-Saharan Africa. The town itself is small, crowded, and busy, similar to many coastal towns I’m familiar with in the U.S. When we visited this past weekend, residents of Elmina were celebrating the Bakatue Festival. The festival is celebrated every year to mark the beginning of the fishing season.
When we were told about the festival, my first thought was to skip it and go relax at the hotel instead. However, as we pulled into the crowded, colorful streets I couldn’t help but follow everyone else out of the bus and into the noise. I grabbed my backpack and camera and jumped out into the festival.
The festival was held at the base of the slave castle, which cast a looming shadow over the streets. The streets were blocked off from cars and were crowded with vendors of all kinds. Clothing, food, and jewelry are just some examples of what was being sold. There was music that could be heard no matter where we went and dancing everywhere we looked. I was amazed at the energy of everyone dancing.
People were dressed in all sorts of outfits; some people even were painted from head to toe. Through the streets of the festival was a parade of people wearing masks, dressed in bright colors and playing trombones. We even noticed someone in a Donald Trump mask. Beyond the streets was a large seating area where people were gathered to watch chiefs and other prominent figures give speeches. We were lucky enough to get inches away from one of the chiefs. The chiefs were dressed in colorful kente fabric with gold accessories.
It was surreal getting to experience this festival among all the Ghanaians. It is an experience I definitely won’t forget and I am glad I decided to get off the bus at the last moment. I hope to be a part of more celebrations like this before we head back to America.
This experience also came a day after we had toured the Elmina slave castle, an incredibly troubling tour. It was interesting to hear about the African view on slavery instead of the American view, the view I have been hearing my entire life. Many or most Africans don’t really have much knowledge of slavery after slaves had been captured and shipped away. Additionally, many Africans don’t even know the history behind the many slave castles that are scattered along the coastline.
I can’t really put into words what it was like to walk through the dungeons and cells where enslaved Africans were kept not that long ago. During the tour, I don’t think the experience truly hit me in the moment. It wasn’t until later when we had a group discussion about our experiences that I really felt the emotions of what I had just seen and heard. I am grateful for my co-students and professors and their willingness to process and share such difficult thoughts and feelings.
One thing about the Elmina trip that will stick with me is the drastic contrast in experiences I got in same town. Throughout the festival, I kept looking up at the castle and remembering the things I heard only a day before. This shows that despite the evils and atrocities of our past, we cannot let them completely overwhelm how we live today. We must learn from our history and act accordingly, but we mustn’t let it consume us.