Accra is a city defined by its dizzying contradictions, lively atmosphere, and friendly people. The chaos of Accra can be qualified by its honking tro tros, enthusiastic vendors, never-ending traffic, bumping music and huge markets. There are slums and mansions on the same street, goats and chickens walking on busy highways and even the people who seem to have nothing are quick to smile, give advice or try to help you. Here is a survival guide to help you navigate the insanity, beauty, and hilarity that can be experienced in Accra.
Tip #1 Always arrive 30 minutes late
Ghanaian people are a lot of things, but timely is not one of them. Everything from parliament, to press releases to trivia nights start at least 30 minutes after the time that you expect. If the Uber app says that the car is one minute away, expect to wait seven more minutes. If your coworker says they are right around the corner, they haven’t left their house yet. Americans might find this infuriating but the key is to embrace this Ghanaian quirk and not be too uptight about your own time management. I have begun arriving late to every event, and I still always beat my coworkers by several minutes.
Tip #2 Let your coworkers take you out for lunch
Ghanaian food is heavily spiced, often fried and most of the time delicious. Although before the trip we were warned against eating street food, I still do almost every weekday. My coworkers take me to places that I would never be able to pick out on my own. A few days ago they brought me to a small canteen to try fufu. Fufu is a gelatinous mixture of cassava and plantain, and while the texture may be daunting on its own, it is fairly spectacular when mixed with the various soups and stews that Accra has to offer. So far, I and the other students can vouch for groundnut soup, spicy egg soup, and goat stew. Other street fair includes plantains (which have the texture and taste of sweet potatoes rather than bananas when grilled over a charcoal grill), fresh mango and chicken skewers. Jollof rice and fried chicken is another dish that is as common as a burger and fries are at home.
Tip #3 The kettle does not make the tap water safe to drink
One of the most famous symbols in Ghana is a stool, and although I don’t mean the loose ones that you’ll get after drinking any water here, I might as well. Just stick to the bags of water that will be passed to you through the window of a tro tro or the coconut water available fresh off of any free corner. Even brushing your teeth with tap water can ruin your night.
Tip #4 Take the tro tro for maximum adventure (and the best price)
The tro tro is a small minivan that runs instead of a city bus in Ghana. They come every two minutes to any destination you could want to visit and they run around 2 cedi per trip (less than 50 cents). They are a great way to meet interesting people, go to new parts of the city, or even experience a hijacking (please see my next post). The tro tro is a perfect way to experience Ghanaian hospitality. The drivers take the time to make sure you get on the right tro tro, get off at the right stop, and receive the correct amount of change.
Tip #5 If you’re having a bad hair day, go to court
For some reason, everybody there wears a tiny blonde wig reminiscent of old-timey British judges. Not just the judge though, but the lawyers and barristers as well. It does not fit over the women’s hair and sits askew. It is a completely hilarious tradition that gets me through boring court cases.
Tip #6 Get out of the house
Although it can be daunting after a long day of work, the best times that I have had in Accra is when I decide to leave the house and go on an adventure. Accra offers endless forms of entertainment. On every day of the week, there is live music in Jamestown, the small artists’ neighborhood that borders the beach. On Wednesdays, there is karaoke at a British pub (although with a free tequila shot when you sing a song, it can become a dangerous night). On Thursdays, there is Trivia Night at an amazing burger place. On Fridays, the Republic bar becomes the place to go to meet a cool mixture of locals and expats. If you’re feeling too hot, there’s a restaurant on the beach, and the cool sea breeze makes the patio 15 degrees cooler than the rest of Accra. In East Legon, there is a hotel that lets you lounge by the pool for less than five dollars. All of these adventures have made my time in Accra unforgettable.
Tip#7 Join the Club club
Although Oregon IPA snobs will turn their noses up at Club beer, I think it’s pretty good. It’s available everywhere, and a huge one is available for between one and two dollars. In most places, it’s actually your only option if you don’t want to drink a Smirnoff ice (and no, they don’t chug them here).
Tip #8 But don’t join the gutter club (If you’re Emily Topping they go hand in hand)
Every street in Ghana is lined with deep, trash-filled gutters. They are often covered with flimsy pieces of plywood or heavy pieces of cement, but I would not recommend stepping on them in any situation. We have heard horror stories of people breaking their legs in them (hi Leslie) and I have seen a few that definitely contain raw sewage. Thankfully the one my friend Emily fell into was only filled with dirt.
Tip #9 Take a weekend trip away
If the insanity of Accra becomes entirely too much, it’s easy to take a weekend away. A few hours West and you’ll reach the Kakum national forest, where you can reacquaint yourself with nature after city living. A few hours east and you’ll reach the Volta region where you can relax on the lake, visit some monkeys and maybe see a zebra or two (although in my opinion, this last option was not worth the horrible sunburn I got walking around the park).
Tip #10 Try to smile as much as the locals do
Sometimes visiting a new country can be really hard. The food is different, transportation is different, working here is certainly different. When I am feeling frustrated or overwhelmed however, it is nice to remind myself to try and take a Ghanaian attitude. I have never seen an angry Ghanaian (well, maybe once when the minister of Finance walked out of parliament to the other MP’s accusing him of “running away). Everybody you pass on the street smiles widely, waves excitedly or asks you about yourself. Their sunny outlook on life is pretty inspiring as far as facing tough situations goes.
