By: Stephen Ssenkaaba

This is the end. Five weeks, all gone in a split second. It is difficult to come to terms with how everything has come and gone by so fast. As I head out of Ghana, I leave with a full and grateful heart. I can’t promise that I will return sooner or later. But I will hold on to some fond memories of my visit to Africa’s gold reserve; a place I called home for one month and four days. Here are my most memorable things about Accra.

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The sounds

Accra has a buzz about it that I will always remember. A wealth of sounds that start at about 5 am with the early morning cockcrow and then progress to the hooting and whizzing of cars as the day unveils. By 8:00 am, the city explodes into one large assemble of deafening noises; a cacophony of speeding cars, street traders haggling with reluctant customers, and the Tro Tro (public transport vans) touts with heads sticking out of the side doors and hands raised up in the air as they beckon pedestrians to join the ride to one of many city destinations: The shrill voices of these young men shouting ”Accra Accra”, “Circle Kaneshie Bus Terminal” (They tend to pronounce this as “Sese Kari”) or  “Circle Bus Stop” (which they pronounce as “Seko”) rings in my head to this day.

The Tro Tro

Driving around Accra is an unforgettable experience. Not so much the comfort of it as the sheer thrill of navigating a busy, somewhat congested city. I rode the Tro Tro probably more times than any of my fellow students on internship this year. Apart from being the cheapest means of transport, it almost always has something interesting going on- from music blasting through the tiny dashboard stereo, to all sorts of passenger telephone conversations. Tro Tro carries people from all walks of life. Market vendors, university students, professionals, and even wheeler-dealers. Tro Tro also comes in different shapes and states: Weather-beaten, firm, haggard, and new. As I leave Ghana, I feel that the Tro Tro has given me a much clearer view of what real life in Ghana looks like.

 

The Fufu

I will always remember Accra for its food. Banku, the fermented casava bread ball usually served in a plastic bag wrap. Jolof, a spicy rice dish with a rich pepper and sometimes fishy aroma. Fried plantain– the sweet and chewy yellow snack. And so many other delicacies. But it is the fufu– the soft dough-like bread served with light and spicy beef soup- that stands out. The firm yet soft feel of this food as it slides down the throat accompanied by the hot soup is unforgettable. I will also remember the fufu eating rule of thumb: Swallow. Do not chew.

The Street names

I was enthralled to learn that one of the streets in Accra is named “Kampala” after the capital of my country Uganda. I then realized that some streets in this city are named after the capital cities of several African countries and others after former African presidents. This warmed my heart. I will remember Ghana as the place where the rest of Africa is represented.

The Smock

Ghanaians love to dress in colorful outfits. I have marveled at the Kente patterns that adorn all sorts of fashion accessories- shirts, skirts, handbags, and even tablecloths. I also like the floral patterns that characterize much of the dress in this country. There is this one outfit that has piqued my curiosity: The Smock. This is a large open shirt with colorful stripes, open arms, and a large flowing base that keeps swaying in different directions with every step that the wearer takes. The Smock is such a flamboyant outfit it sometimes struck me as an extravagant, casual dress until a senior journalist told me that it actually is a serious outfit, originally worn by royals from the North, but has now been adopted by ordinary folk. I can still visualize men walking about the city clad in their smock shirts.

The Vendors

I admired the fighting spirit of Ghanaian ordinary folk; the guys that line up the busy city streets from 5:00am every day carrying heavy basins full of goods to sell to passing motorists and pedestrians. I marveled at the way women and young men balanced buckets full of snacks and other goods on their heads, pushing their way through heavy traffic to catch the stressed eyes of drivers as they waited for the green lights. I loved the hardboiled egg pyramid, the orange mountain, the peanut hill, and another creative assembling of the merchandise as it stood on the steady heads of the vendors waiting for prospective buyers.

The preacher

The Street Preacher I met every morning on my way to work was always an interesting spectacle. Resplendent in an all-white suit, this man assembles his red pulpit next to a bus stop. Clutching a black microphone, he prances up and down, assuring all who care to listen about the need to accept Jesus. His improvised red pulpit, his energy, and his passion remain fresh in my memory. It also reminds me of the preachers in Kampala Uganda who line the streets clutching Bibles and preaching to seemingly absent-minded passersby.

Bofrot

There are snacks in Ghana and there is Bofrot. This deep-fried orange ball of dough has been the highlight of our long trips to the countryside. Its soft, sweet, and oily texture leave a greasy taste in the mouth. It could be filling, depending on how many you eat. It also comes very cheap and will easily be found on the streets, sold by the vendors. Bofrot reminds me of a similar Ugandan snack called “Mandaazi”. Thick. Sweet. Oily. Pocket friendly. It was my favorite lunch break snack in primary school. Bofrot brings back happy childhood memories.

“Humble Thyself”

Slogans are a popular way for some Ghanaians to express themselves and you will find them in different parts of Ghanaian public life. The most interesting for me are the ones written on the rear screens of some public services vehicles-especially taxis and Tro Tro vans. These slogans range from the haunting to the funny, to the ridiculous, and everything in between. Whatever they are, these slogans sometimes resonate with you in ways you never expect.  Some of my favorite lines include: “Humble Thyself”, “Lover Boy”, “Slow But Sure”, and “Fabulous, No Size”.

The Shoes

I have seen different fashionable men and women in Accra. I still find many men’s penchant for wearing shoes without socks in this city quite interesting. I know style sometimes dictates that some shoes go without socks. I get that. I think though that some Ghanaians in Accra stretch this fashion rule a tad too far.

There is so much to remember about Accra. For me, it wasn’t necessarily the posh and plush or sophisticated stuff. The most memorable moments for me were in the daily, seemingly mundane goings on. Thank you, Ghana. Thank you, Accra, for the memories.