[By Nishat Parvez]
As the first rays of dawn broke through the misty horizon, I plunged into an extraordinary journey to Kumasi, a city nestled in Ghana’s Ashanti Region—renowned for its gold bars, cocoa production, and profound cultural heritage. Leaving behind the coastal allure of Cape Coast, I had modest expectations, but Kumasi’s rich tapestry of history and vibrant present soon captivated me. This blog chronicles my immersive experience exploring the regal Manhyia Palace, the sacred Golden Stool, and the bustling Kumasi Central Market. Through these adventures, I discovered the true essence of resilience, unity, and heritage. My heart was filled with stories of bravery, tradition, and the unyielding spirit of the Ashanti people.
Our adventure commenced early in the morning. The journey to Kumasi was surprisingly smooth, sharply contrasted with the bumpy ride we had recently when we traveled to Cape Coast. After nearly six hours of travel, we finally arrived at our hotel. From there, our exploration of the Manhyia Palace began. This palace serves as the seat or throne of the Ashantehene, the Ashanti King. Built in 1925 after the British destroyed the original palace in 1874, it was offered to Asante King Nana Prempeh I upon his return from exile.
The palace, a two-story building, did not match my preconceived notions of royal residences from a South Asian perspective. This palace was relatively simple, unlike the grand and ornately decorated palaces I have seen, with long majestic roads leading to the king’s abode. This simplicity, however, carried a profound message—it suggested a sense of accessibility and approachability, making the king seem more like one of the people.
Inside the palace, life-size statues of the current Asante King and his sister referred to as the ‘Queen Mother,’ stood prominently. The Queen Mother is not necessarily the king’s mother; she could be his sister or aunt. She is referred to as the Queen Mother, because she is the mother of the people, and rules alongside the Asante King. The present Asante King, Otumfuo Osei Tutu II, is a direct descendant of the founder of the Asante Kingdom, Osei Tutu I.
The palace walls were adorned with numerous photographs of the current and past kings in the company of notable figures such as Pope Francis, Desmond Tutu, and Nelson Mandela. We watched an insightful documentary about the present king. A fascinating exhibit was the palanquin used by the king and queen’s mother, traditionally carried by men from Kumasi to Accra, a journey that spanned several weeks. While I have seen various types of palanquins in India and Bangladesh used for transporting royalty, the Ghanaian ones stood out for their unique textures.
Our tour continued to the king’s meeting room and living room, where we observed family pictures and various historical items. One fascinating artifact was a nearly hundred-year-old fan that, despite its noisy operation, still provided a pleasant breeze to visitors.
We also saw the gold items that England loaned to the Ghanaians, which were actually owned by the Ashanti king. These gold jewelry pieces were uniquely designed and remarkably different from those I’ve seen before. This reminded me of the history between Bangladesh and India, where the British took many of our valuables and never returned them. Even if they were to return them, I’m sure it would be on loan.
Another thing that captured my attention was the Golden Stool, a potent symbol of the Ashanti king’s leadership. Though the Stool was in the Ashanti Palace, the general public could not see it, as it was brought out only for ceremonies. The Golden Stool is not just a royal seat but a sacred emblem that must never touch the ground. When presented to the king, it is carried on a pillow. The British once took the stool, and the Governor demanded to sit on it at the time, which sparked the “War of the Golden Stool” or the Yaa Asantewaa War. This conflict was led by a formidable Ashanti woman and Queen Mother, Nana Yaa Asantewaa, who galvanized her tribe’s warriors to defend their heritage and honor. This war was one of several fought by the Ashanti to maintain their sovereignty, and the Golden Stool remains a symbol of national unity and pride.
Nana Yaa Asantewaa’s story resonated deeply with me, reminding me of Rani (Queen) Bhabani of Natore, a historic region now part of Bangladesh. Rani Bhabani fought and triumphed over the Nawab of Bengal’s army to protect her land and treasury. Known for her philanthropy and generosity, Rani Bhabani, like Yaa Asantewaa, is remembered as a powerful and inspirational female leader.
Unfortunately, photographs were not allowed inside the museum, limiting the number of pictures I could take. The museum was bustling with activity, particularly with school children exploring and learning about their rich cultural heritage. It was heartening to see young minds being introduced to their history. Our guide in Kumasi, Somaila, was incredibly passionate, sharing fascinating historical anecdotes with the help of the museum guide. Adjacent to the museum was a gift shop featuring an impressive collection of wood carvings and handicrafts, perfect for souvenirs.
Later, we visited a cultural center and, the next day, explored the Kente Clothes Museum, Adinkra Craft Centre, and the largest market in West Africa, the Kumasi Central Market. Initially, I doubted that the Kumasi trip would be engaging. However, the rich history of the King’s Palace, the intricate weaving of Kente cloth, the intriguing Adinkra symbols, and the vibrant hustle and bustle of Kumasi Central Market provided a wealth of stories to share with my family, friends, and blog readers. The trip was a treasure trove of cultural experiences and historical insights.