[By Porter Levenson]

This last weekend we took a trip to Kumasi where I did the most shopping I have ever done. It makes sense; Kumasi is home to the largest market in western Africa, the Kejetia Market. Towering in the center of the bustling city square, the area around it also is filled with vendors. Contrasting the gray concrete of the apartment buildings around it, the corrugated metal ceiling of Kejetia is painted brightly in red and yellow. Large Adinkra symbols decorate the ceiling, and the four floors underneath them buzz with activity.

On the first floor, rows of meat were laid out. Every part of every animal was available, including parts that I didn’t know were edible. The cows tail, for example, or the hoofs of goats. I don’t know what can be made with those but I’d be curious to find out. The whole bottom floor was dedicated to foodstuff, with every fruit, vegetable, and grain being represented. As we walked up the metal stairs to the next floor, the environment changed. Instead of food, we were now surrounded by electronics and, shoes, clothes, and jewelry. What stood out to me was that there were multiple stands selling the same product. The entire market could technically be consolidated into half the size if there were only a few vendors selling the same thing. But I guess the competition is so high that the prices are crazy low. I walked away with a pair of shoes and two bracelets for $3 (USD). 

Kumasi, the land of the Asante, boasts a rich and powerful royal family, ranking second only under the British monarchy. The Asante culture is a treasure trove of history and tradition, and to delve deeper into this beautiful culture, we visited the Manhyia Palace Museum. This museum, the old palace of the Asante emperor, was originally gifted to the Asante by the British. However, the Asante, not wanting to be in debt to the British, chose to buy the palace instead of accepting it as a gift. 

Displayed around the museum are very realistic statues of the previous kings and queens of the Asante kingdom. When I say realistic, they are extremely realistic– copying everything down to the wrinkles of each person. Even the hair looks real. I can see the love that was put into each of the statues through the immense care for their culture. The Asante’s culture is deeply embedded with gold (we are on the Gold Coast), and this was evident through the amount of gold at the museum. I counted more than five large cases filled with artifacts made out of pure gold. This is just a small percentage of the gold they have, though, as the current king will often wear lots of gold jewelry for formal occasions.

The British also still have much of the gold they took from the Asantes when they originally took control of the land. Thinking themselves generous, the British offered to give what they stole back. The Asante’s, of course, accepted, but there was a catch. The artifacts would only be on loan to the Asantes, and the loan would have to be renewed every three years. We talked about this over dinner that evening.

Many of us are from countries that have had experience with British colonization. This makes sense, as Britain has fought for or had control over 171 of the 193 countries that are currently UN member states or nine out of ten of all countries. They have taken things they deem as valuable from each of these countries and take them for themselves. None of us believe they should have the right to take and keep what isn’t theirs. These artifacts will enhance the Asante’s culture and by keeping them, they are disrespecting Asante traditions. I hope the British will come to realize this and change their ways.