In my opinion, the best way to learn about a culture is through their food. Food can tell you so much about a place from the types of crops grown in the area to special traditions in how that dish was prepared. Before coming to Ghana, I was told not to have street food right away and ease into it… I broke that rule during our first week of internships. I was determined to try anything and everything.
Before I begin this guide, I’d like to mention that I consider myself to be a very adventurous eater. I’m not a picky eater and I don’t judge a plate by how it looks. However, a small disclaimer—traveler’s diarrhea is fairly normal. Take things at your own pace yet be fearless with your choices!
Banku
Banku is a white ball of dough made from corn and cassava. It’s usually served with a pepper sauce which is also paired with many other dishes. Most dishes will be served with red pepper or black pepper. The black is much more peppery than the red. Eat with caution. Usually, banku is paired with tilapia or some kind of soup. To properly eat it, you have to get used to eating with your hands. You’d pull a small amount of the dough into your hand, mash it up in a way that it sticks altogether, then dip it into the pepper sauce and pop it in your mouth! I have heard that some Ghanaians will swallow the banku, but many will chew. If you are enjoying it with tilapia, you’d simply pick the fish apart with your hands and carefully avoid the bones. If you were to have it with soup, you’d dip the banku into the soup, and enjoy!
Fufu with Goat Light Soup
This is my favorite dish so far. Fufu is sort of like banku in a way that it is another ball of dough. It is simply pounded cassava and is more “wet” compared to the “dryness” of banku. Another similarity that fufu shares with banku is that it is paired with many dishes as well, more specifically any kind of soup or stew. I had the chance to enjoy it with “light soup.” Ghanaians call it light soup to describe the consistency, not the color. “Heavy” soups exist…but then you will hear it being called “stew” instead. This is another dish that you eat with your hands. Using your right hand, you are supposed to “cut” a bite-sized piece of fufu with your index and middle finger. Take that piece and make a small pocket in it using your thumb. Now, your fufu looks like a dough-like spoon in your hand. Take that piece and scoop up some of that soup and pop it in your mouth then swallow. It’s an interesting way to eat—but so delicious! I loved this dish so much because the tomato-based soup reminded me a lot of a Vietnamese soup called Bun Rieu. I plan to have this at least two more times before we leave.
Kenkey
Kenkey is last in the dough family, with this ball of dough being made only of maize. Highly similar to banku, one would eat it by mashing it in your hand to make an edible bite. I think kenkey takes longer to eat because it’s more effort to find the right texture of it before dipping it in pepper and finally having it reach your mouth. It is also paired with fish and sometimes egg! I suggest eating this when you are ready for a heftier meal.
RedRed
RedRed is a delicious vegetarian option that is one of the easier dishes to digest. The first “red” refers to black-eyed peas prepared with red palm oil. The beans are usually dressed with a nice layer of gari, which is grated cassava. It adds a nice texture that complements the mushiness of the beans. The second “red” refers to the fried plantains it is paired with, called korkor. Korkor is a favorite of many. You can never get enough plantains in Ghana.
Kelewele
I think this is a popular favorite in the group this year. Kelewele is cooked plantains again, but with certain spices that melt in your mouth. If you like korkor, you’ll love kelewele. It’s delightful and delectable!
Waakye
Pronounced “wah-chay,” this dish is a simple yet satisfying plate of rice and beans. If you’d like to enjoy it for lunch, wake up early because most vendors only sell it in the morning time. There isn’t too much to say about this dish. All you need to know is that it’s yummy, and you should eat it.
Kontomire
Think of kontomire as sautéed spinach on the side. Instead, it is mashed cocoyam leaves and can either be a sauce-like texture paired with rice and a choice of meat or even as a main dish, like a kontomire stew. There is a pungent taste to it and I prefer to enjoy it by putting a little bit of everything on my plate onto my spoon. It’s a combination better than having it simply by itself.
Other things that are worth trying are fried yams and potatoes with pepper, jollof rice, (served anywhere and everywhere) and Blue Skies freshly made juices. Fresh fruits are also very delicious here in Ghana like mango and pineapple. I hope that this guide is helpful to you, especially when you are tired of having chicken and rice all the time. If you’re unsure about where to get these dishes, ask any coworker and they will tell you the best spots to get what you want.
I encourage everyone to be adventurous when it comes to food choices in places like Ghana. You won’t find these dishes anywhere close to home!